मेरी श्रद्धा

Nageshvara Jyotirlinga Temple

The Lord of Serpents, who answered a devotee's chant in the forest of Daruka.

The Nageshvara temple, about 16–18 km from Dwarka on the road to Beyt Dwarka, is revered as the Nageshvara Jyotirlinga, the Shiva Purana's 'Nagesha in Darukavana'. Its underground sanctum and the giant seated Shiva statue in its grounds draw pilgrims on the Dwarka circuit. Aundha Nagnath in Maharashtra and Jageshwar in Uttarakhand also hold this tradition, and devotees honour all three.

Nageshvara Jyotirlinga Temple
Photo: Wikimedia Commons

History

The Shiva Purana tells the story of the Nagesha Jyotirlinga in chapters 29 and 30 of its Kotirudra Samhita, and the popular Dvadasha Jyotirlinga stotra recalls it in the line 'Nagesham Darukavane', 'Nagesha in the forest of Daruka'. In most lists it is counted as the tenth of the twelve Jyotirlingas.

Where Darukavana lay has been debated for centuries. The Shiva Purana describes the demons' forest as lying along the western ocean and stretching sixteen yojanas, and this is the main reason the shrine on Gujarat's Arabian Sea coast, between Dwarka and Beyt Dwarka, is identified with the Jyotirlinga. The economist and Sanskrit translator Bibek Debroy, retelling the chapter, notes that its exact geography is hard to pin down. The Devbhumi Dwarka district administration describes the site as the place believed to have been known as Darukavana.

Two other temples hold the same tradition. Jageshwar near Almora in Uttarakhand links 'Darukavana' with 'daruvana', a forest of deodar (devdaru) trees, which grow abundantly there. Aundha Nagnath in Hingoli district, Maharashtra, cites the Dvadasha Jyotirlinga stotra attributed to Adi Shankaracharya, which praises 'Naganath' in a city called Sadanga in the south, understood as an old name of Aundha. Each tradition rests on a reading of scripture, and the question remains open.

No documented building history of the old shrine near Dwarka survives in published sources. Before its modern rebuilding it was a small temple that pilgrims describe as having fallen into poor condition. The present temple complex was funded by Gulshan Kumar, founder of the T-Series music company, who, according to widely repeated accounts, decided to rebuild it while on a pilgrimage to all twelve Jyotirlingas. Gulshan Kumar was killed in Mumbai in 1997; a portrait of him hangs near the temple entrance. The new building was raised over the old one, and the original sanctum was kept in place below ground level.

Today the temple is a regular stop on the Dwarka pilgrim circuit, usually visited on the way between Dwarka's Dwarkadhish temple, one of the four Char Dham, and Beyt Dwarka, which has been linked to the mainland at Okha by the Sudarshan Setu road bridge since 2024. With Somnath, it is one of the two Jyotirlingas in Gujarat.

Legend

According to the Shiva Purana, the demon Daruka and his wife Daruka (Daruki), who had won a boon from Goddess Parvati, terrorised the righteous from their forest by the western sea, which Parvati had placed in the demoness's charge. When the gods rose against them, the demoness used her boon to move the demons to a city on an island in the ocean. From there they seized boats and imprisoned travellers.

Among the captives was Supriya, a merchant (vaishya) and devoted worshipper of Shiva. In prison he made an earthen (parthiva) lingam, taught his fellow captives to worship Shiva and chant his name, and kept up the worship for six months. When Daruka found him and ordered him killed, Supriya prayed without fear. Shiva burst forth from a cavity in the earth as a blaze of light, gave Supriya the divine Pashupata weapon, and destroyed the demons who had harmed his devotees.

Parvati then pleaded for the demoness's line, and Shiva allowed it to survive. He agreed to remain in that forest to protect his devotees, as the Jyotirlinga called Nageshvara, with the Goddess as Nageshvari. The Purana says that anyone who hears this story with devotion and takes darshan of the lingam is freed from sin.

The Devbhumi Dwarka district administration also relates a story told in the Vamana Purana: Shiva, appearing as a naked ascetic adorned only with serpents, tested the sages who lived in Darukavana; cursed by the angry sages, he lost his lingam, and the earth trembled until, at the prayer of Brahma and Vishnu, he promised to remain in Darukavana forever as a Jyotirlinga. The name Nageshvara, 'Lord of serpents', recalls both stories, and devotees believe worship here protects against poison and snakebite.

Architecture

The present Nageshvara temple is a modern building in red and white, raised in the late 20th century over the old shrine. Gujarat Tourism describes a large hall that leads to the main sanctum at its far end. According to the Government of India's Incredible India portal, the plan follows Vastu Shastra and is based on the reclining (shayana) posture of the human body, with the sanctum placed at the head.

The garbhagriha lies below ground level, and devotees step down into it for darshan, an arrangement unusual among the Jyotirlingas. The Jyotirlinga is of a stone known as Dwarka shila, marked with small chakra-like circles, and is often compared to a three-faced (tri-mukhi) rudraksha. Pilgrims point out that the lingam faces south while the gomukh (the spout that drains the abhishek water) faces east. An image of the goddess Nageshvari (Parvati) is worshipped in the sanctum with the lingam.

The grounds are dominated by a seated statue of Shiva about 25 metres (roughly 80 feet) high, visible from far across the flat coastal land, with a large garden and pond. A statue of Durga added during the renovation faces the main shrine, and a smaller image of Shiva's family sits beneath a banyan tree.

Daily rituals

  • Morning abhishek and aarti

    Early morning, after opening (about 6:00 AM)

    The day begins with abhishek of the Jyotirlinga and the morning aarti.

  • Abhishek and Rudrabhishek by devotees

    Morning session

    Devotees offer water, milk and other sacred substances on the lingam in the sunken sanctum. Close abhishek in the sanctum has traditionally required men to wear a dhoti, which the temple provides; paid puja may be needed for sanctum access.

  • Chanting 'Om Namah Shivaya'

    In the Shiva Purana story, Supriya led the prisoners in Shiva's worship and chanting. Repeating the five-syllable mantra here is especially meaningful for devotees.

  • Bilva patra offering

    Bilva (bel) leaves, dear to Shiva, are offered to the lingam with prayers.

  • Evening (Sandhya) aarti

    Around sunset (about 7:00 PM)

    The main evening aarti. The temple typically closes for a midday break and reopens in the late afternoon.

Timings change by season and on festival days. Confirm with the temple trust before you travel.

Festivals

Phalguna (February–March)

Mahashivratri

The temple's biggest festival, when large crowds gather for night-long worship and abhishek; All India Radio reports name Nageshwar among Gujarat's busiest Shiva temples on the day.

Shravan (July–August)

Shravan Mondays

Mondays in the holy month of Shravan draw many devotees from across Saurashtra for abhishek.

Kartik (October–November)

Kartik Purnima

A full-moon day observed at Shiva temples with lamps and special worship, coinciding with the busy pilgrim season at Dwarka.

How to reach

By air
The nearest airports are Porbandar (about 107 km) and Jamnagar (about 126 km), per Gujarat Tourism. From either, continue by taxi or bus to Dwarka.
By rail
Dwarka railway station is about 16–18 km from the temple; Okha, the terminus of the line, is also close to the Beyt Dwarka circuit. Taxis and autos run from Dwarka.
By road
From Dwarka, take the road towards Okha and Beyt Dwarka (NH 947) and turn off on the Nageshwar road; the temple is about 16–18 km from Dwarka town. Shared and private taxis do a half-day circuit of Nageshwar, Gopi Talav and Beyt Dwarka.
Best time to visit
November to February is the most comfortable time on the hot Saurashtra coast, and Gujarat Tourism also recommends Mahashivratri, which is celebrated with great fervour. Shravan Mondays are especially auspicious but crowded. Summers (April–June) are very hot.

Tips for pilgrims

  • Combine your visit with the Dwarkadhish temple, Rukmini Devi temple, Gopi Talav and Beyt Dwarka; most taxis cover these in a half-day loop.
  • Men who wish to perform abhishek in the sanctum should be ready to wear a dhoti; ask at the counter about current rules and puja fees.
  • The sanctum is below ground and reached by steps, which can be crowded on festival days.
  • Carry water and sun protection; the coastal area is hot and the temple grounds are open.
  • Confirm darshan and aarti timings locally; published hours vary between sources.
  • If you wish to visit all three Nageshvara traditions, Aundha Nagnath (Maharashtra) and Jageshwar (Uttarakhand) are also revered by devotees.

Pack for this yatra

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Questions pilgrims ask

What is the story of Nageshvara Jyotirlinga?

According to the Shiva Purana, the Shiva devotee Supriya was imprisoned by the demon Daruka in an island city in the western sea. He led the prisoners in Shiva's worship, and when the demon ordered them killed, Shiva appeared as a radiant Jyotirlinga, gave Supriya the Pashupata weapon and destroyed the demons. Shiva remained there as Nageshvara, with Parvati as Nageshvari.

Where is the real Nageshvara Jyotirlinga: Dwarka, Aundha or Jageshwar?

Three sites hold the tradition. Dwarka in Gujarat is linked to the Shiva Purana's description of a forest by the western sea; Aundha Nagnath in Maharashtra cites Shankaracharya's stotra; and Jageshwar in Uttarakhand links Darukavana with deodar forests. The question remains debated, and devotees revere all three.

How far is Nageshvara Jyotirlinga from Dwarka?

The temple is about 16–18 km from Dwarka town, on the route to Okha and Beyt Dwarka. Most pilgrims visit it by taxi on the same day as the Dwarkadhish temple.

Who built the Nageshvara temple near Dwarka?

The old shrine's origins are not documented. The present temple and its large Shiva statue were funded by Gulshan Kumar of T-Series, who rebuilt it over the old shrine and kept the original underground sanctum.

How tall is the Shiva statue at Nageshwar?

The seated statue of Shiva in the temple grounds is about 25 metres (roughly 80 feet) high, according to the Devbhumi Dwarka district administration.

Sources

The Twelve Jyotirlingas