Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, Thiruvananthapuram
The Lord who reclines on Anantha, after whom the city of Thiruvananthapuram is named.
The Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple in the East Fort of Thiruvananthapuram enshrines Vishnu reclining on the serpent Anantha, and gives the city its name, 'the city of Lord Anantha'. One of the 108 Divya Desams, it was the state temple of the Travancore kings, who ruled as servants (dasas) of the deity. Its blend of Kerala and Dravida architecture, its strict traditions and its great festivals make it the foremost Vaishnava shrine of Kerala.
History
According to the temple's own history, published by the temple administration, the origin of the shrine is lost in antiquity and cannot be dated with certainty from reliable documents. The Bhagavata Purana (canto 10, chapter 79) mentions Balarama's visit to 'Syanandoorapuram', identified with Thiruvananthapuram, and the Brahmanda Purana also refers to it. The Tamil Vaishnava saint Nammalvar praised Padmanabha in ten verses, which shows the temple existed by the 9th century; it is counted among the 108 Divya Desams.
The temple history records that it was reconstructed and its management reorganised in 1050 CE, and that between 1335 and 1384 the Venad king Veera Marthanda Varma brought its administration firmly under royal control; records show the ten-day Alpashy festival being held in 1375. Between 1459 and 1460 the idol was moved to a balalaya (temporary shrine) while the roof of the sanctum was rebuilt, and in 1461 it was reinstalled and the Ottakkal Mandapam, a platform of a single granite slab before the sanctum, was set up. The foundation of the great eastern gopuram was laid in 1566. For centuries the temple was also governed by the Ettara Yogam, a council of priests and nobles that today has a ceremonial and advisory role.
In 1686 the temple was almost entirely destroyed by fire, and reconstruction began only in 1724. Marthanda Varma, who became king of Travancore in 1729, undertook its renewal. In 1730 the idol was again moved to a balalaya, and over two years the sanctum was rebuilt and the old wooden image replaced by the present one, made of the complex compound known as katusarkara yogam and containing 12,008 salagrama stones. The temple history records that 4,000 sculptors, 6,000 labourers and 100 elephants worked for six months to build the great stone corridor (sreebalippura). The gopuram begun in 1566 was completed, a teak flagstaff sheathed in gold was raised, and the Padmatheertham tank was rebuilt.
On 17 January 1750, Marthanda Varma dedicated his kingdom to Sree Padmanabha in the act known as Thrippadidanam, and thereafter he and his successors ruled as 'Padmanabha Dasa', servants of the Lord. In 1936 the Temple Entry Proclamation of Maharaja Chithira Thirunal Balarama Varma opened Travancore's temples to Hindus of all castes; under its terms, entry is restricted to those who profess the Hindu faith.
In recent decades the temple's administration has been the subject of litigation. In January 2011 the Kerala High Court directed the state to take over its management; on appeal, the Supreme Court in June 2011 ordered an inventory of the temple's vaults, labelled A to F. Several were opened and their contents catalogued; Vault B was not opened. On 13 July 2020 the Supreme Court set aside the High Court ruling and upheld the shebait (custodial) rights of the Travancore royal family, directing that the temple be run by an Administrative Committee chaired by the District Judge of Thiruvananthapuram, alongside an Advisory Committee. The court left decisions about the vaults to the committee. No official valuation of the temple's holdings has been published.
Legend
The temple's palm-leaf records and the Sanskrit text Ananthasayana Mahatmya tell the story of the sage Divakara Muni, a Tulu Brahmin devotee of Vishnu. While he was in deep penance, Vishnu appeared to him as a lovely child and agreed to stay with him on one condition: if he was ever treated without respect, he would vanish. One day, as the sage worshipped, the child put the sage's salagrama into his mouth; the sage scolded him, and the child ran away, saying, 'If you wish to see me again, you will find me in Ananthankadu.'
Realising who the child had been, the grieving sage searched for many days without food or sleep, until in a forest near the sea he glimpsed the child disappearing into a huge ilappa tree. The tree fell and took the form of Maha Vishnu reclining on Anantha, so vast that its head lay at Thiruvallam and its feet at Trippappur, miles apart. The sage prayed that the Lord shrink so that he could behold him, and the form became three times the length of his yoga staff. He offered a raw mango in a coconut shell, and the Lord ordained that his worship be performed by Tulu Brahmins. To this day salted mango remains an offering, the original coconut shell is preserved encased in gold, and half the temple's priests come from the Tulu region.
A second, very similar tradition credits the Namboothiri sage Vilvamangalathu Swamiyar with the vision at Ananthankadu and the mango offering. The temple notes that its customs support both accounts: the morning pushpanjali is performed by a Namboothiri sanyasi (the Pushpanjali Swamiyar), the tantris come from the Tharananalloor Namboothiri family, and the small Thiruvambadi Sree Krishna shrine is believed to stand over Vilvamangalam's samadhi.
The Puranic tradition adds that Balarama, on pilgrimage, bathed in the Padmatheertham and made offerings to the Lord here, and devotees consider darshan of the reclining Padmanabha, with Brahma on the lotus rising from his navel and Shiva beneath his hand, a vision of the whole Trimurti.
Architecture
The temple is a distinctive fusion of the Kerala temple tradition and the Dravida style of Tamil country, reflecting Travancore's place at the meeting of the two cultures. Its most visible feature, unusual in Kerala, is the eastern gopuram: a seven-tiered tower of about 100 ft (30 m) in the Pandyan Dravida manner, begun in 1566 and completed under Marthanda Varma, rising over the Padmatheertham tank. Within the high outer walls, however, the shrine follows Kerala practice, with sloping roofs, wooden detailing and a sanctum enclosed by the nalambalam (inner cloister).
The great sreebalippura, the rectangular stone corridor built in Marthanda Varma's time, runs around the inner temple; it is often said to have 365¼ carved granite pillars, each with a female lamp-bearer (deepalakshmi) and other figures. It shelters the seeveli (sreebali) processions of the deities on rainy days. Before the main shrine stands the gold-sheathed flagstaff (dhwajasthambham), about 80 ft high, made of a single teak trunk brought from the forest so that, the temple records, no part of it touched the ground.
The sanctum holds Padmanabha reclining on the five-hooded serpent Anantha, in the yoga-nidra posture. The image, made of katusarkara yogam enclosing 12,008 salagramas, is so long that it is seen through three doors: through the first, the face and Shiva lingam beneath the right hand; through the second, the navel with Brahma on the lotus and the gold and silver processional images; and through the third, the feet, with Bhudevi and the sage Markandeya. Devotees view it from the Ottakkal Mandapam, the single-stone platform before the sanctum, on which only the king traditionally may prostrate fully.
Around the main shrine are shrines of Narasimha, Sree Krishna (Thiruvambadi), Sastha (Ayyappa) and others. The temple's interior walls and the corridors of the sanctum preserve Kerala mural paintings, and the complex sits at the centre of the historic fort, its four Nada streets lined with the old mathams and residences of temple functionaries.
Daily rituals
Nirmalya darshan
3:30 – 4:45 AMThe first darshan of the day, before the previous day's flowers are removed, is among the most auspicious. The temple's official site lists this as the first morning darshan window.
Morning darshan and pushpanjali
6:30 – 7:00 AM; 9:30 – 11:15 AMThe morning pushpanjali (flower worship) is performed by the Pushpanjali Swamiyar, a Namboothiri sanyasi, by long tradition. Devotees enter in the official morning darshan windows.
Ucha pooja and midday darshan
12:00 noon – 1:00 PMThe midday pooja is followed by a final morning darshan, after which the temple closes until the evening.
Evening darshan and deeparadhana
4:30 – 6:15 PM; 6:45 – 7:20 PMThe temple reopens in the evening; the lamps are lit and arati offered. The last darshan ends at 7:20 PM.
Seeveli (Sreebali)
Morning and eveningThe processional images are carried around the sreebalippura corridor on the temple's vahanas, to the sound of traditional percussion, offering bali to the guardian deities.
Timings change by season and on festival days. Confirm with the temple trust before you travel.
Festivals
Thulam/Aippasi (October–November)
Alpashy Utsavam
A ten-day festival, recorded as early as 1375, ending with the Arattu, when the deities are taken in procession, escorted by a member of the Travancore royal family, for a ritual bath in the sea at Shanghumugham beach.
Meenam/Panguni (March–April)
Painkuni Utsavam
The second ten-day festival of the year, also concluding with the Arattu procession to Shanghumugham.
Kanni/Thulam (September–October)
Navaratri and Swathi Sangeethotsavam
Nine nights of worship, accompanied by a classical music festival in honour of the composer-king Swathi Thirunal.
Once every six years (January)
Murajapam and Lakshadeepam
Fifty-six days of continuous Vedic chanting (Murajapam) culminate in the Lakshadeepam, when a hundred thousand oil lamps are lit around the temple.
How to reach
- By air
- Thiruvananthapuram International Airport is about 6 km from the temple, with domestic and Gulf and South-East Asian international flights.
- By rail
- Thiruvananthapuram Central station at Thampanoor is about 1 km from the temple, linked to cities across India.
- By road
- The Central KSRTC bus station at Thampanoor and the East Fort bus terminal are within walking distance. Autos and taxis reach the East Fort area easily.
- Best time to visit
- October to March is cooler and drier, and includes the Alpashy festival and Navaratri. The southwest monsoon (June–September) brings heavy rain. Arrive early for Nirmalya darshan, as morning queues build quickly on weekends and holidays.
Tips for pilgrims
- Follow the strict dress code: men must wear a dhoti (mundu), with an angavastram optional, and keep the head uncovered; women may wear a saree, a pavada with blouse, or a dhoti wrapped over trousers. Salwar suits and other modern dress are not allowed. Mundus can be hired near the gates.
- Only those who profess the Hindu faith may enter the temple.
- Phones, cameras and electronic devices are not permitted inside; use the cloakroom counters.
- Plan around the official darshan windows, which are short and separated by closures.
- Walk around the Padmatheertham tank and the old Fort streets, and visit the Kuthiramalika (Puthenmalika) palace museum next door.
- During the Arattu processions, traffic around the city and even flights at the airport may be held up; check local notices.
Pack for this yatra
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Questions pilgrims ask
What are the Padmanabhaswamy temple timings?
According to the temple's official website, darshan is open from 3:30 to 4:45 AM, 6:30 to 7:00 AM, 9:30 to 11:15 AM and 12:00 to 1:00 PM, and in the evening from 4:30 to 6:15 PM and 6:45 to 7:20 PM. Timings may change on festival days.
What is the dress code at Padmanabhaswamy temple?
Men must wear a dhoti and may not cover the head; an angavastram is optional. Women may wear a saree, a pavada with blouse, or a dhoti over trousers. Salwar suits and other modern clothes are not allowed.
What is the story of Padmanabhaswamy temple?
According to the Ananthasayana Mahatmya, Vishnu appeared as a child to the sage Divakara Muni, vanished after being scolded, and then revealed himself in Ananthankadu as a vast reclining form, which shrank at the sage's prayer. A similar tradition credits Vilvamangalathu Swamiyar.
Who manages the Padmanabhaswamy temple now?
Following the Supreme Court's judgment of 13 July 2020, which upheld the Travancore royal family's shebait rights, the temple is administered by an Administrative Committee chaired by the District Judge of Thiruvananthapuram.
Why can't the idol be seen at once?
The reclining image is very long and is viewed through three doors: the face, the navel with Brahma, and the feet.
Sources
- https://spst.in/
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Padmanabhaswamy_Temple
- https://www.theweek.in/news/india/2020/07/13/sree-padmanabhaswamy-temple-sc-upholds-right-of-travancore-royal-family-in-administration.html
- https://www.livelaw.in/amp/top-stories/sree-padmanabha-swamy-temple-case-sc-upholds-rights-of-erstwhile-royal-family-of-travancore-159797
- https://www.deccanherald.com/amp/story/india/supreme-court-upholds-rights-of-travancore-royal-family-in-administration-of-sree-padmanabhaswamy-temple-860559.html
- https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1473969